There's something magical about discovering a vintage treasure that others might have overlooked. Whilst everyone knows the timeless appeal of Burberry trench coats and Chanel handbags, some of the most fascinating vintage brands remain delightfully under the radar. Today, I'm thrilled to share some of these hidden gems with you – the sorts of finds that make my heart skip a beat when I spot them at a car boot sale or tucked away in a charity shop corner.
Frank Usher: The Forgotten King of Evening Wear
Long before the era of fast fashion, Frank Usher was creating some of the most spectacular evening wear to grace British social occasions. Founded in 1946 by Max and Anne Bruh, this London-based brand became synonymous with affordable glamour throughout the 1950s and 1960s. What makes Frank Usher pieces so special is their incredible attention to detail – think hand-sewn beading, ingenious ruching, and the sort of construction techniques you simply don't see anymore.
I'll never forget finding my first Frank Usher dress, a midnight blue creation from 1965, complete with its original label. The quality of the silk chiffon and the intricate beadwork took my breath away. Today, these pieces typically fetch between £90-300, though exceptional examples can command much more. Look for the distinctive black label with gold lettering, and pay special attention to the beadwork – genuine Frank Usher pieces feature glass beads, never plastic.
Horrockses Fashions: The Cotton Dress Pioneers
While Liberty prints might get all the glory, Horrockses Fashions was creating some of the most innovative cotton dresses of the post-war period. Operating from 1946 to 1983, this Preston-based company transformed cotton from a practical fabric into something truly fashionable. The brand's collaboration with artists for unique prints set them apart, with designs that still feel remarkably fresh today.
When examining a Horrockses piece, look for the signature full skirts and fitted bodices that characterised their 1950s heyday. The prints are a joy – bold, colourful, and often featuring distinctive florals or geometrics. Original Horrockses dresses in good condition now sell for £200-600, with rare designs commanding even higher prices. The label should read "Horrockses Fashions" in distinctive script, often on a white background.
Windsmoor: Beyond the Winter Coat
Whilst Windsmoor might ring a faint bell, few realise just how innovative this British brand was during its heyday. Established in 1933, Windsmoor became famous for its coats, but their ready-to-wear collections from the 1950s and 1960s are the real hidden treasures. The brand's commitment to quality materials and expert tailoring resulted in pieces that rival much more expensive designers of the era.
Look for the distinctive Windsmoor label, which changed slightly over the years but always maintained an air of sophistication. Their use of Scottish wools and English tweeds was particularly noteworthy. Today, a good Windsmoor coat might set you back £100-£250, while their dresses and suits can often be found for around £60-150.
Gina Bacconi: Italian Flair Meets British Elegance
When it comes to occasion wear with a distinctive European flourish, Gina Bacconi holds a special place in British fashion history. Established in the 1970s, this brand brought Italian-inspired glamour to British wardrobes, becoming particularly renowned throughout the 1980s and 1990s for their exceptional evening wear and mother-of-the-bride ensembles.
What makes vintage Gina Bacconi pieces so collectable is their remarkable attention to detail and innovative use of fabrics. Their vintage pieces often feature intricate beadwork, sophisticated prints, and clever use of stretch materials that was ahead of its time. I recently discovered this glorious 1980s Gina Bacconi cocktail dress made from the most incredible fabric– the sort of piece that demonstrates why these garments are increasingly sought after.
When searching for vintage Gina Bacconi, look for their characteristic label with elegant script typography. Earlier pieces from the 1970s and 1980s are particularly valuable, with prices ranging from £60-200 depending on style and condition. Their use of quality fabrics means that many pieces have survived beautifully – look for their signature ruching techniques and expert draping, which were hallmarks of the brand.
Escada: The Power Dressing Pioneer
Though Escada originated in Germany, their vintage pieces became incredibly popular among British fashion enthusiasts during the 1980s and early 1990s. The brand exemplified the bold, confident aesthetic of the era, with a distinctive approach to luxury fashion that feels increasingly relevant today.
Vintage Escada pieces from this period are characterised by their bold colours, distinctive gold-tone buttons, and exceptional tailoring. Their suits and coordinated sets are particularly coveted – think sharp shoulders, nipped-in waists, and that unmistakable sense of power dressing that defined the era. The quality of their wool blazers and silk blouses is remarkable, often featuring intricate embroidery or unique button designs that collectors adore.
When authenticating vintage Escada, examine the label carefully – it should feature the characteristic 'E' logo and clean, modern typography. Prices for vintage Escada pieces have been steadily climbing, with good condition suits now fetching £150-400, while statement pieces with unique designs or embellishments can command even higher prices.
Jaeger: British Luxury Redefined
While Jaeger might be familiar to many, its vintage pieces from the 1960s and 1970s represent some of the most overlooked treasures in British fashion history. During this period, Jaeger was creating innovative designs that combined traditional British tailoring with modernist influences, resulting in pieces that feel remarkably contemporary even today.
The brand's vintage knitwear is particularly special – look for their pure wool pieces featuring distinctive geometric patterns and colour combinations that were ahead of their time. Their camel hair coats from this era are also incredibly sought after, featuring the kind of craftsmanship that's rarely seen in modern clothing.
Original Jaeger pieces from the 1960s and 70s often feature a distinctive black label with gold lettering, while earlier pieces might have the red Jaeger label that collectors particularly prize. Expect to pay £80-250 for dresses and suits, while exceptional coats can fetch £300-500. The quality of their wool pieces means they've often survived in remarkable condition.
Mondi: German Precision Meets British Style
Mondi brought something unique to British fashion in the 1980s – a distinctive blend of German precision tailoring with bold, contemporary design. Though less well-known today, vintage Mondi pieces are increasingly sought after by collectors who appreciate their quality and unique aesthetic.
What sets Mondi apart is their masterful use of colour and pattern, particularly in their knitwear and coordinated sets. Their pieces often feature sophisticated colour blocking and geometric designs that feel surprisingly modern. The construction quality is exceptional – look for their perfectly matched patterns at seams and immaculate finishing details.
When collecting Mondi, focus on pieces from the 1980s and early 1990s, which represent the brand's golden era. The label should feature their distinctive logo, often on a black background with gold lettering. Prices currently range from £40-150 for separates, while complete sets can fetch £200-300.
The Joy of Discovery
What makes collecting these lesser-known brands so rewarding is not just their relative affordability compared to more famous names, but the thrill of discovering and preserving pieces of British manufacturing history. Each item tells a story of craftsmanship, innovation, and the changing face of British style.
Whether you're just starting your vintage collection or looking to expand into new areas, these hidden gems offer something special. They remind us that great design and quality craftsmanship weren't limited to the big-name brands we all know. Sometimes, the most remarkable treasures are the ones waiting to be rediscovered.
Remember, the joy of vintage collecting isn't just about the monetary value – it's about preserving pieces of history, appreciating craftmanship that often exceeds today's standards, and finding those special items that speak to your soul. Happy hunting friends!
Until next time
Emma x
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